Yield: 10 Pieces

Main Dishes

This recipe delivers a cracking, splintering crust, a mix of spices that tickle the edge of the mouth, and succulent meat that’s flavorful through and through. It finishes big, with nods to the traditions of Buffalo wings, Nashville hot chicken, and Korean-style fried chicken, by way of a finger-licking, lip-smacking chile butter that coats and catches on the crust, providing an extra hit of heat and sweetness. I’m mad for it, most ideally alongside a crisp green salad (page 185).

While it takes some time, the method for fried chicken isn’t burdensome. It is particular, though. There’s a dry rub first, then careful dredging and cooking. Mixing flour and cornstarch contributes to the crunch, while using diluted buttermilk slows the browning of the crust, to allow the meat the time it needs to cook, and baking powder helps keep the coating light. There is a glee in the making, and unmitigated joy in the eating. Batter up.

  1. To make the chicken, with a mortar and pestle, combine the salt, pepper, paprika, sugar, thyme, and bay leaves. Bruise the herbs into the spices, then mix around a bit. In a large bowl, season the chicken with the spiced salt. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 4 hours, and up to overnight.
  2. About 1 hour before you want to begin frying, remove the chicken from the fridge. Set a rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
  3. To make the coating, in a wide, shallow dish, stir together the flour, cornstarch, paprika, salt, and pepper. In a bowl, whisk the buttermilk, water, and baking powder together. Remove the thyme sprigs and bay leaves from the chicken.
  4. Using tongs, or one hand for the wet work and one hand for dry, lightly dredge a piece of chicken in the seasoned flour, then dunk in the buttermilk mixture, letting any surplus drip away. Place the piece on the prepared rack, and continue until all pieces have been dipped. Starting with the first piece, coat the chicken again in the seasoned flour. Press and wiggle the chicken around in the dish, then shake off the excess dry mix. The aim is to build up a thin, wrinkled coating. Return the piece to the wire rack and do the same with the rest of the chicken. You can repeat the process and go for a double dip, but it makes for trickier frying (see Note).
  5. Line a large plate with a few layers of paper towels. Preheat an oven to 200°F (100°C). Set another wire rack over a sheet pan and place in the warm oven. In an 8-quart (8 L) Dutch oven with a 12-inch (30.5 cm) diameter, bring the oil to 350°F (175°C) over medium heat. (Or use a deep fryer and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.)
  6. While the oil heats, make the honey butter. In a small saucepan set over low heat, warm the butter and honey, swirling to combine. Stir in the gochujang, garlic, and gochugaru. Set aside.
  7. Starting with the legs and thighs, lower half the chicken pieces into the oil, skin side down. Cover and fry for 2 minutes. Open the lid and check for even browning, moving any pieces if needed. Fry for 4 minutes more, uncovered. Turn the chicken pieces over and cook, still uncovered, until the pieces are equally golden on the second side, 6 to 8 minutes longer. Transfer the chicken to the paper-lined plate, rolling the pieces on all sides against the paper to remove any oil. Let stand while you bring the oil back to temperature. Transfer the cooked chicken to the sheet pan in the warm oven and line the plate with clean paper towels. Fry the remaining chicken, drain, and transfer to the oven rack. Leave the chicken in the oven for 10 minutes, after which the chicken should be around 180°F (80°C) at the thickest part of the dark meat. Either toss the chicken with the hot honey butter or drizzle it over the chicken, then have at it.